Cliff dwellings in Upper Johns Canyon, Utah.

 How we find our way around in the wilds of the western USA November 2023

Back in the 1980’s I was exploring the high plateau above Cedar City Utah. The plateau averages around 9600 feet elevation, undulating over old lava flows amid conifer stands. Despite being a life-long visitor to the back country since childhood I rarely ever got lost. That day on the high plateau was different. I had walked through the forest and lava flows for a while, occasionally crossing old dirt vehicle tracks; then realizing that there were no distant landmarks or any unique distinguishing features to the terrain. I had lost my way. Pausing, I set out on what I thought was the right direction. No good. Lost. The gray overcast day hid the sun, so I had nothing to go by. It was a terrible feeling. Eventually I found my way back to my truck.

If you have done something similar, you know the mix of relief and embarrassment when you get back in the vehicle and think about the close call you just had. It could have been much different and much worse.

I vowed to never even take a walk without navigation aids. It has grown to be a bit of an obsession. I will share how we find our way in remote and even developed areas. Maybe this information will help someone else.

Principles:

1 - Stay aware of my location. If I don’t know where I am, I stop immediately and figure it out. I don’t keep moving. 

2 - I use multiple systems such as a mix of analog, digital and paper navigation aids. I once, as a test, used three different turn by turn systems (a Garmin dash mount, my Toyota Highlander’s in-car navigation and Google maps on my phone) simultaneously to get to the address of Trader Joe’s in Bend from a location north of Sisters. Each gave me a different route, time varied a lot, and two eventually would have guided me successfully.

3 - I never assume a road or trail exists as shown on my navigation tools. I double check by confirming landmarks and terrain features. Time and weather changes on the ground conditions constantly, particularly in off-highway areas. Highways can be different too, such as the bridge washout west of Blanding Utah on highway 95, which forced a detour through winding fairly rough high clearance roads for nearly a year.

What I use at this moment:

• Paper maps: Benchmark and Delorme atlases, National Geographic trail guides, books and visitor information guides.

• Analog devices: Brunton compass, Suunto M-3 compass.

• Handheld digital devices: Garmin InReach mini-2, Garmin e-trex, smartphone when there is reception.

• Dashmount digital devices: Garmin DriveSmart 65, Samsung GPS 10 inch tablet with Avenza maps with Benchmark, Delorme, USFS MVUMs and other digital maps as needed.

I always set a digital waypoint on both the Garmin handhelds before going off on a walk. They can vary from true location by as much as a 100 yards, so I don’t rigidly follow them. See number 1, above.

I always bear in mind the old maxim: “The map is not the terrain.”

Stay safe and have fun out there.